2 English reviews written for eSUN ePA Natural
3 customer reviews in all languages
| 5 stars | | 0 | (0%) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 4 stars | | 3 | (50%) |
| 3 stars | | 2 | (33%) |
| 2 stars | | 0 | (0%) |
| 1 Stars | | 1 | (16%) |
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Peter
30 March 2024
"Verified Purchase" indicates that the rating was given by customers who actually bought this product from us. However, anyone who has a customer account with us can give a rating. -
Markus
20 February 2023
"Verified Purchase" indicates that the rating was given by customers who actually bought this product from us. However, anyone who has a customer account with us can give a rating. The Hardest of Filaments
Rated with 4 out of 5 stars.
I mean in it's not for mere amateurs. This one needs a gluestick OR a build plate that can be heated to 200 degrees Celsius. This filament will expand a lot after it starts cooling. Too bad I didn't order a gluestick. Otherwise, the filament is amazing. If only it would have said it straight that I need glue.
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Maybe I should give it 5 stars...
Rated with 4 out of 5 stars.
Or maybe not... It depends. The learning curve was steep with this. But reward is great! I managed to make really durable spur wheels with this filament.
When you are considering to use this filament lets clarify this:
This is not for basic printers. I have pretty cheap Anycubic Kobra Neo- it wouldn't be able to print with this filament. But, I have rebuild it into wooden case and all electronics is outside the case.
And even then, it took me a few days of trying and thinking what else I could try to make this work.
1. The filament needs to be dried! Even new one contains too much water. Drying for 12h at 75°C alleviated problems with the water absorbed in the filament. I recommend not to remove it from dryer since it takes water quite fast. Print it with feeding mechanism pulling the filament directly out of dryer
2. The adhesion on heated bed was really abysmal. My bed has PEI surface. No glue could hold the printed parts on surface. I have tried paper tape-it takes it off of the surface. At the end, what helped was a RAFT ! Use 3 layers of raft with Z contact distance of 0.1mm and 3mm raft expansion at the very least.
3. I have found it printing the best at the bed temperature of 65°C and nozzle temperature at 230°C with printing speed of 100mm/s(outside perimeters have reduced speed to 50%) Notice: the temperature range mentioned in "Product information & technical details" is a bit different from what is recommended on the box.
4. Important is also cooling. Min. fan speed of 30, max. fan speed of 60%, Bridges at 60%. I have fans OFF for 5 to 10 layers. If the cooling is not OFF warping induced by higher layers- it leads to part adhesion to bed problems.
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